Le Colombier

French Restaurant Le Colombier, Chelsea, London

Le Colombier French Restaurant Chelsea London

http://www.le-colombier-restaurant.co.uk

Le Colombier - London Restaurant Reviews | Hardens

Critic Marina O'Loughlin Pays Tribute to Predecessor AA Gill in ...

Ruth Reichl became restaurant critic for the New York Times in 1993, launching her column with a now-legendary (perhaps even instantly legendary) review of Manhattan institution Le Cirque.

She, too, has chosen to remain anonymous, though not out of veneration for Reichl (Garlic and Sapphires is, to her, “the most pompous book I’ve ever read about restaurants”) — but, rather, because remaining as outwardly unexceptional as the rest of the public — eating as everywoman — is, in her eyes, the best way to make “something that’s wanky and elitist accessible.”

O’Loughlin accordingly toes a delicate line in her first column in the late, great Sunday Times’ critic’s slot.

“Review” might be a bit much, actually: this is more of a meditation on Gill, his “pyrotechnic” accounts of “mythical places” that O’Loughlin — like so many others — thrilled to as a reader, when the idea of writing That London’s most prestigious restaurant column was a fantasy as distant as Glasgow from SW3.

As much as James Cochran’s food, at its best, delights — and that chicken really is very good — Dent’s review suggests there’s something more fundamentally awry.

Le Colombier, London SW3, restaurant review - Telegraph