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Tom Parker Bowles reviews Black Axe Mangal: Eat to the beat: It's ...
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While rock (good stuff, AC/DC, Queens of the Stone Age and The Allman Brothers) pounds out at gut-trembling volume.
Then kid offal pide, fresh from the oven, the bread thin, crisp and charred, every bit the equal of Green Lanes.
Trust me, Black Axe Mangal really, really rocks.
THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN Rock ’n’ roll chef Michael O’Hare has just won a Michelin star for his intensely modern food at his art/rock-inspired restaurant.
The restaurant, No 20, serves good, modern European food.
Black Axe Mangal, restaurant review: 'Haute kebab' joint rocks in ...
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And if a cold kebab and some scruffy lamb and lentils can do that, just imagine how good it was to start with… I dragged my heels a bit about BAM – a kebab joint in Islington that has the carnivores gibbering with longing.
The chef is Lee Tiernan, who's spent time slaving not over a grill at a takeaway but at the rather more mannered St John Bread and Wine restaurant, and the quality and refinement he brings is all over the menu.
A red plastic basket lined with foil holds a pillowy charred bread with heaps of finely sliced livery bits, softened onion, a whack of chilli and a tahini-infused mayonnaise.
Miss T's falafel is more refined than it looks – there's crunch and creaminess, sure, but also distinct flavours and more of that heavenly bread, all skewered with tiny plastic swords to hold the peppers in place.
The classic kebab – sorry, call me prudish and old-fashioned but I just don't love the name Deepthroater – is a tiny bit chewy and not tender enough for my liking, but then I don't often do kebabs, so maybe that's what it's all about (a prod through the unwrapped doner the next day reveal a medley of cuts that explains the differing textures).
Black Axe Mangal, London
Black Axe Mangal | North London | Restaurant Reviews | Hot Dinners
Fay Maschler reviews Black Axe Mangal: Turkish takes a heavy ...
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Lee Tiernan, with his wife and business partner Kate Mullinger Tiernan, are the couple behind the new, diminutive, singular eating place (restaurant is not quite the right word) on Highbury Corner roundabout.
Earlier this year he ran a pop-up also called Black Axe Mangal in the beer garden of Copenhagen’s Bakken nightclub.
I am indebted to wine maven and articulate, effervescent blogger Zeren Wilson for encouraging me to go to BAM, for arriving early on my first visit to secure us a table and revealing that it is the second syllable that is stressed in the word “mangal” referring to an open grill.
Mission Chinese spice mutton doner — the tingling seasoning mix being authorised by Danny Bowien of Mission Chinese in San Francisco and New York City — is not to be missed, if only to appreciate the loquaciousness of lamb tongues.
My neighbour the first evening may not have been to Berber & Q in Haggerston or — in an Asian interpretation —Shackfuyu in Soho but he is nevertheless correct; there is nothing else in London quite like Black Axe Mangal.
Restaurant Review: Black Axe Mangal | The London Economic
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Born from a temporary pop-up at Bakken nightclub in Copenhagen, Lee Tiernan (previously head chef at St. John Bread & Wine) and his wife, Kate Mullinger Tiernan, opened Black Axe Mangal near Highbury Corner in 2015.
Tonight’s playlist is largely comprised of thrash metal, classic rock and some Hip-Hop (Action Bronson features, a famous fan of Black Axe Mangal, also features).
A popular dish at Black Axe Mangal, guinea fowl is portioned, dredged in thin buttermilk batter and deep-fried.
A sole dessert of Jameson whisky and honey ice cream is available, but another doughnut seems far more appropriate as a lasting memory of Black Axe Mangal’s outstanding marque of comfort food.
In a time of so many grossly pretentious restaurants, Black Axe Mangal breaks the mould.