We work with the best farms in the UK and butcher our meat on site to create a specials board bursting with coal-grilled prime cuts and slow cooked specialities.

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Smokehouse Islington I Home

Review analysis

Restaurant Review: Smokehouse, 63-69 Canonbury Road, London ...

Review analysis
staff   location   food   drinks  

I never could get in to the rackety but delicious Pitt Cue Co once it moved from a food truck on the Southbank to a restaurant with Rankin at the helm in Soho, and seemed fated not to sample those oft-dreamt-of melting pork dishes.

But the delicious surprise is in the other stuff, dishes of refinement and delicate flavour  such as a starter of smoked mullet with sea purslane and burnt onion (£6), or squid with romanesco (£7), the lightest, softest version I’ve had since, well, forever.

There’s also a Smokehouse salad, a highly seasoned tangle of little gem, fennel, onions etc, that has been shown the grill.

But for dinner, for meat-eaters, a short-rib bourguignon (£16) is a glossy, almost black hunk of meat, wobbling on its bone and with plenty of mushrooms, bacon and onion strewn around.

Smokehouse, 63-69 Canonbury Road, London N1, tel: 020 7354 1144.

Restaurant: Smokehouse, London N1 | Life and style | The Guardian

Review analysis
staff   food   menu   drinks   ambience  

Neil Rankin, chef at the newly-opened Smokehouse in Islington, seems like a decent, hard-working chap, and what do I do?

They've stopped roasting their potatoes in duck fat in favour of sunflower oil, especially for yer veggies.

They point her towards every meat-free item on the menu and allow her to order cauliflower cheese separately from its billed dish.

Or stovies, a traditional Scottish ribsticker, here translated as chunks of just-collapsed potato bathed in a thick lamb jus with tendrils of onion.

And the roast potatoes are a teeny bit dull, probably due to that lack of duck fat.