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Eat 17 Hackney | East London | Restaurant Reviews | Hot Dinners
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Eat 17 - restaurant review | London Evening Standard
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In just four years, Chatsworth Road and its neighbouring Lower Clapton Road have been transformed from a Hackney danger zone to a microcosm of bourgeoisie east London life with wooden-tabled wine bars, Swedish brunch spots and a “coffee and records shop” all part of the neighbourhood’s tapestry.
With Clapton’s latest dining opportunity though, comes another new beginning for E9 as Walthamstow’s burger bar-cum-deli Eat 17 gives the area its first taste of bistro dining with a restaurant housed in the eaves of a former snooker hall.
Having already enjoyed a successful residency in the Spar shop below — earlier this year Eat 17 joined forces with the local supermarket chain to bring a well-stocked deli and burger bar to Clapton — the new venture marks a first for the family-run business, launched in Walthamstow seven years ago.
It’s sultry, with an impressively-stocked bar upfront and oh-so-comfortable banquettes which look more upper east New York than east Hackney, thus making for a refreshing change in a neighbourhood in which white Formica tables and trendy Swedish chairs are considered essential dining apparatus.
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Grace Dent reviews Eat 17 | London Evening Standard
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I have had so many atrocious dinners in London that once I discover a new dining spot that cocoons me, feeds me and loves me (via food) I’ll sneak in time and again, often ordering the exact same meal.
Three times in a fortnight I’ve washed up there when the fridge was empty for a kingly side order of my new death-row request, its tempura soy pomegranate broccoli.
Now the cavernous property has been turned into a casual but elegant coffee, brunch, dinner, cocktail venue, with a downstairs burger bar run by the same family.
Obviously I’m not going to cook with these things as there’s this new place in Hackney serving London’s finest buttermilk chicken burger, but it’s the greedy thought that counts.
Eat 17, 64-66 Brooksby’s Walk, E9 (020 8986 6242; eat17.co.uk) 1 Classic Sour £8 1 Champagne cocktail £11.50 1 Tempura broccoli £4 1 Chicken croquettes £4.60 1 Buttermilk chicken burger £10.90 1 Dry aged rump steak £14.50 1 bottle Malbec £16 1 Brownie £6.40 TOTAL £75.90 Browse Grace Dent's latest restaurant reviews Browse Grace Dent's latest restaurant reviews 1/10 El Pastór 2/10 Radio Alice 3/10 Lingholm Kitchen 4/10 Luca 5/10 Anzu 6/10 Temper Paul Winch-Furness 7/10 Smokestak Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures 8/10 Noble Rot 9/10 Laughing Heart Evening Standard / eyevine 10/10 Park Chinois
Eat 17 | Restaurants in Homerton, London
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The ambitious menu aims to please all palates with anything from simple cheeseburgers to chargrilled lamb with sweet red pepper sauce, yoghurt drizzle, a scattering of coriander and chopped pistachios on offer.
The lamb was rosy pink and pleasant if unremarkable; a starter of sprouting broccoli tempura was crisp and light, though the pomegranate molasses and soy sauce dressing was overly sharp.
In the march towards the gentrification of east London, the team behind this and the original grocery shop/eatery combo in Walthamstow Village get top mark for efforts.
As for the food, in the words of ’90s boy band East 17, ‘It’s all right’.