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The Ledbury 2016 | London Eater
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There was a time when it wasn’t hot like now, even though Brett’s been cooking off the charts since his sous chef days at The Square (and in Sydney for Liam Tomlin, if you consider his route to Phil’s kitchen).
With Phil and Nigel in the support structure, Brett opened the Ledbury in 2005, taking only a year to win his first star (in 2006).
The cool mustard ice cream is great, tomatoes are so meaty and umami filled, a sprinkle of salt and shellfish infused oil, all you need to tease out flavours.
It’s fab fruit, I had it for my birthday a few weeks ago, paired with native lobster (at Bonhams), and here it’s paired with fragrant hazlenuts and green beans, a textured and aromatic salad of summer with shavings of frozen foie parfait, melting as it hits your palate.
In a wine glass, they poured a warm consommé of wild mushroom, with julienne of Australian winter black truffle and the delicate claw.
The Ledbury, 127 Ledbury Road, London W11 | The Independent
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What is there left to say about the restaurant everyone's been talking about for the past couple of years?
Two Michelin stars, highest climber at this year's World's 50 Best Restaurant awards, and now the 2013 Harden's Guide has it ranked as the best-rated top-end restaurant in London (displacing Le Gavroche), while Food and Travel Magazine last week named it London Restaurant of the Year.
A grey-green pottery plate is the perfect backdrop for this riot of colour and flavour; two crisp cylinders contain the curd and are edged in granules of olive.
I'm on soda water and Mr M has a glass of 2009 Savennières with his starter, 2006 Barbaresco with his pigeon; it's a terrific wine list, but prices reflect the expected income of people who can drop £100 a head on a meal.
£220 for two, including two glasses of wine Dinner: Heston Blumenthal's latest topped Harden's' 22nd annual survey of more than 7,500 regular restaurant-goers for their best meal of the year.
The Ledbury - Wikipedia
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It holds two Michelin stars, and has been featured in S.Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants.
The restaurant opened in 2005, under head chef Brett Grahm.
[1] It is the sister restaurant of The Square, a two Michelin star restaurant in Mayfair, London, with the same backers investing in both restaurants.
The new restaurant gained a Michelin star within a year of opening,[3] but sales only increased by 2009.
[3] Also in 2010, it was awarded the Square Meal BMW Restaurant of the Year Award.
review of London British restaurant The Ledbury by Andy Hayler in ...
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Domaine Pelle Menetou-Salon Morogues 2015 was £57 for a bottle that you can find in the high street for £14, Breuer Riesling Momtosa 2012 was £75 compared to its retail price of £23, and Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2011 was £90 for a wine that will set you back £30 in the shops.
This was excellent, the liver flavour combining nicely with the jelly, the texture of the puff suitably light.
The dumpling had deep flavour, the bite of mustard and the acidity of the fruit creating a lovely balance with the deer (18/20 average, more for the muntjac).
My first course was white beetroot baked in clay with eel in both smoked and dried form, with a garnish of English caviar.
If you shared a modest bottle of wine then a realistic all-in price with coffee and service would be around £160.
Classics revisited: The Ledbury
The man behind all of this is Aussie chef Brett Graham, who came to London aged 21 in 2000, won the Young Chef of the Year award two years later and three years after that opened The Ledbury with Nigel Platts-Martin, the purveyor of adult-orientated restaurants who Graham had worked for at The Square.
The Ledbury wasn’t an overnight success but Graham has long since moved on from noughties-style fine dining to create somewhere that feels absolutely of itself, from the down-to-earth staff totally at ease in their suave environment to the bags of compost made from kitchen waste that diners can pick up on the way out.
Restaurant review: The Ledbury, London W11 | Life and style | The ...
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This is not tremendous news for anyone, other, perhaps, than pawnbrokers, the makers of confectioneries in which people traditionally seek comfort in hard times, and, of course, the Official Receiver.
Spending less than a pony on three courses of such quality will be the kind of morale boost many will be after when the sight of Stephanie Flanders wearing a black armband on BBC news bulletins finally loses its allure.
The only vague moan my friend and colleague, Marina Hyde, could dredge up - apart from mild irritation at such faddish Michelin orthodoxies as "assiette", "emulsion" and "foam" - concerned the decor, and that's purely a matter of personal taste.
"You could be in a high-end restaurant in Tokyo or Las Vegas," Marina said, citing this homogeneity as a recherché expression of globalisation as she took in the beiges and creams, dark wood floorboards and plush leather chairs in a spacious, square room put together a few years back when money was cheap.
Lacking my sense of fiscal responsibility, Marina went à la carte, and after bacon and onion brioches of such savour that we were tempted to sate ourselves with six each and do a runner, she kicked off with one of those witty reinventions of a timeless classic that can test the patience.