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Bitten & Written | Review | Capote Y Toros, Kensington, SW5
food
This sherry and tapas bar from old hand Abel Lusa of Cambio de Tercio, personifies the flourish of the matador’s cape (capote), and the dazzling colours of the flamenco dancer, the space a garish blend of pink, red and yellow.
The quality and execution of the dishes belies the lowly “sherry and tapas bar” moniker.
.......... Iberico Cheeks “Al Oloroso Dulce” – Silken Iberico cheeks steeped in Oloroso sherry, nestling on indecently textured potato, invigorated by a backnote of peppery olive oil, is a show stopper.
Sherry is now firmly back in the groove on the London dining scene – this list trumps them all.
Wine is relegated to the back of the list and plays second fiddle, the sherries covering all bases with a commendable Palo Cortado offering.
Capote y Toros restaurant review 2011 May London | Spanish ...
food ambience
London’s first sherry bar Capoto y Toros (the cape and the bull) is the little sister to the excellent Cambio de Tercio just a couple of doors down.
Five styles of sherry are offered as a flight of tasting glasses at £12.50, in order from the lightest to the heaviest style: we tried Fino Quinta, Alegria Manzinalla, Delgado Zuleta Amontillado, Oloroso Dry from Gutierrez Colosia, and Palo Cortado from Regente (the exact sherries on the flight vary).
As well as excellent ham from Recebo (£7.50) we tried many of the tapas dishes.
Andalucian style gazpacho (£4) was lovely, with deep tomato flavour (remarkably the tomatoes tonight were from an English supplier, though they sometimes use ones from Spain) and well balanced and seasoned (15/20).
The meal finished appropriately with a Pedro Ximines ice cream with raisins and macadamia nuts (easily 14/20), while I also sampled a mousse of sweet Oloroso sherry with caramelised figs (13/20).