Jago Restaurant

Jago Restaurant

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Jago – restaurant review

Review analysis
food   staff   menu  

The building is home to Jago, a recently-opened restaurant that seats diners in a long bright orange tube; a ‘conservatory’ overlooking the graffiti of Hanbury Street.

This rather perplexing mix translates to an assortment of small plates with the occasional nod to Jewish cuisine, or at least traditional Jewish ingredients.

Starting at £6 per small plate, with expensive wine, dinner here isn’t a budget meal, and unfortunately feels directed at a corporate clientele.

Given the history of the area, I wish such creative cuisine were less costly and featured more Jewish food.

That said, the food at Jago is inventive and painstakingly prepared, and I’ve not seen chervil on a plate anywhere else in East London, so a restaurant of this calibre is a welcome and innovative addition to the Brick Lane area.

Jago, restaurant review: 'The Middle Eastern menu is as dazzling as ...

Review analysis
food   drinks  

Yes, everyone has written about the spaceship side of things – the design courtesy of the Spanish architects SelgasCano – observing that it is an adjunct to Second Home, a hub for entrepreneurs and digital wunderkinds set up by Rohan Silva (formerly an adviser at No 10).

Louis Solley was previously head chef at Ottolenghi in Notting Hill, making him part of the Jewish food revolution that has taken London by storm (Honey & Co, The Palomar).

The girolles on toast have tarragon and white wine (£8); the fresh borlotti beans, with their wonderful softness, come with tomato, olive oil and a sprig of really fresh thyme, more imaginative than basil (£9.50); and the asparagus with capers and egg arrives with a waft of fragrant dill, its aniseed flavour coursing through the dish like an injection.

So you have excellent grilled 'nduja (spicy sausage, £7.50) on toast, with thyme and honey (honey and pig: always a winner); a juicy roast poussin with cardamom, oregano and bread salad (£14.50); and pork chop and roast lamb dishes (the former with butter beans, the latter with peas and broad beans, each £16) that come with lashings of marjoram.

Among the desserts, we try an excellent gooseberry (the berry of the moment, with a sour tartness all of its own), frangipane and macadamia tart (£7); and a chocolate tart with sea salt and crème fraîche (£6).

Jago, London, Brick Lane. Book now!

On paper, Jago is a bar and restaurant with Ashkenazi influences.

Well, firstly you can find Jago close to Brick Lane along Hanbury Street in London.

More importantly, Jago’s somewhat coy self-description means beautiful, minimalist dishes that take inspiration from the cuisines of the world’s diverse Ashkenazi Jewish communities.

A stone’s throw from the madding crowd of Brick Lane, Jago’s Hanbury Street location and laconic presence communicates confidence and calm.

Evidently a modest chap, his fresh and unadorned young restaurant, Jago, is open for bookings.

Jago, London E1, restaurant review - Telegraph

Review analysis
food   menu  

I’m not sure that the look matches the food, exactly – the menu is modern Middle Eastern and Ashkenazi.

Salt fish, smoked aubergine, parsley and breadcrumbs (£7) was inventive and uncompromising, yet its flavours were very pure: you could almost taste where the aubergine met the fish, with the high, grassy parsley skittering above.

Scallops with shallots, onion purée and black truffle (£10) was lovely and reignited my love for the scallop.

It was perfectly nice, and the onions had a sweet, pickly tang that worked especially well against the mellow squash.

The meat was soft and supple and gorgeous, the cabbage fresh and rather beautiful.

Jago: restaurant review | Jay Rayner | Life and style | The Guardian

Review analysis
staff   drinks   food   location   menu   desserts  

Meal for two, including drinks and service: £80 A decade or two back a friend of a friend who, like me, is Jewish, bought a warehouse apartment on Brick Lane in London’s Shoreditch.

The only obvious remnant of the Jewish community that was once here are the two bagel shops – or beigel shops; arguing over spelling like this is not worth a broigus – at the far end of Brick Lane.

Brick Lane is now a slum in the same way that I am thin, and this is an Ashkenazi restaurant in the same way that Burnley has a beach.

Courtesy of places like Monty’s Deli at Maltby Street (see News Bites, below) there is very good salt beef to be had in London.

In a restaurant paying even passing homage to Ashkenazi traditions, poor salt beef is an unignorable crime.

Jago | Restaurants in Spitalfields, London

Review analysis
food  

Part of the Second Home internet start-up hub, this conservatory cafe and restaurant serves Ashkenazi-based dishes of the Jewish diaspora.

Second Home is a ‘workspace hub’ for internet start-ups.

Dishes are loosely based on Jewish cooking from the Middle East and Europe.

The best dish was a veal cheek goulash, served with orzo and a green harissa topping; full-flavoured meat, well-spiced with paprika.

Other dishes were lacklustre.

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